CRG JUNIOR 100CC Guide de dépannage Page 4

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Copyright 2005 © SSC Racing. All rights reserved.
Advanced Techniques and Theory
General Theory
To enable us to properly set up a kart chassis, we must first understand the most basic principals of the
racing kart, which is a unit made up of tubes and front steering geometry, propelled through a live axle
(one without a differential). Making adjustments to enable the race kart to turn without oversteer or
understeer is difficult and challenging. Achieving a well-balanced chassis set up is part art and part
science.
Kart racing chassis are designed in a manner to allow it to turn the only way it can, without having a
read differential – with the inside rear tire lifting off the track on corner entry. The outer rear tire drives
“around” the outer front tire, allowing the chassis to efficiently turn into the corner because the rear tire
is off the track surface.
If the inner tire does not lift, no matter how much you turn the steering wheel, the front of the chassis
wants to keep going straight, creating an understeer or “push” condition.
Note: If the driver is not changing the direction of the kart properly, it is possible he/she is making a well-tuned
kart behave badly. While this guide does not delve into driving techniques, here’s something to make sure you
are on the right track:
Observe where the proper apex (clipping point) is for each turn on the track. When you’re driving, each
time you pass an apex in a corner, you should be starting to smoothly move the steering wheel back to
the center. If you do it properly, you will not have to “hold” the steering on, past the apex of the corner. If
you follow this technique and run out of usable track at the exit of the corner, you may have turned-in too
shallow at entry or your apex was too late. If you follow the technique and have too much usable track at
the exit of the corner, then you may have rotated the kart too hard at entry or your apex is too late in the
corner.
If you are holding the steering past the apex, you are holding the kart down, and you probably need to
work on your corner entry techniques. While this dynamic changes somewhat in shifter karts, the basic
principal still holds true: The kart (and you) should do most of the work (change of direction) early in the
corner, so you can drive smoothly off the corner and not bind the kart down. Before completely changing
your baseline kart set up, be sure the problem isn’t the nut behind the wheel.
When a chassis lifts up the rear wheel properly, then the chassis can pivot and turn. Therefore, the kart
must be set up with sufficient side grip to enable the inner-rear tire to lift upon entry, as it is faster to
drive the kart through the corner than to try and slide through.
Generally, when the chassis elements (axles, torsion bars, hubs, etc…) are on soft settings, the kart
has less grip. As the chassis elements are made more rigid, grip will be increased. However, there are
points of diminishing return where the chassis will get too firm to perform properly.
The modern race kart will typically perform best when the rear width is set as wide as possible and the
front width is as narrow as possible, while still providing a fast, well balanced and stable package. You
cannot simply set the chassis on these min/max settings and hit the track, but this concept will help
create a target for your efforts to tune a happy chassis.
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