CRG JUNIOR 100CC Guide de dépannage Page 18

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Copyright 2005 © SSC Racing. All rights reserved.
Rain Set Up
Obviously the first change is fitting rain tires. Beyond that, racing in the wet is extremely
challenging, even more so if you’re stuck with a dry set up. The changes below will serve to
soften the chassis and improve adhesion in the wet.
First, a word or two about driving in the wet. Get some RainX for the outside of your visor, a
good anti-fog agent for the inside of your visor and a plastic rain suit to wear over your driving
suit.
The typical racing line contains oil, water and rubber. This is not a good combination. You
want to spend as little time on the normal racing line as possible. In the wet, the proper driving
line is to “square” the corners and cross-over the normal racing line, instead of following it. A
good portion of body English is also useful in an effort to properly load the outside front tire
when turning into a corner.
Move the front wheels out as far as possible. Some manufacturers have extensions
that attach to the spindle, making it possible for the front track to increase even more.
Rear track should be moved in as far as possible. Move the rear wheels in until the
centerline of the rear tread aligns with the inside edge of the front tires.
Set front ride height as high as possible.
Set front end for maximum caster (III/III) and increase camber if possible (III/II).
Toe should be set from 1/8” to ¼” out (each side).
Front and rear bumpers should be tight.
Increase tire pressure. The fronts should be at least 15 psi and the rears should be
around 20 psi. This will make the tires heat up faster. Low tire temperatures can be a
significant problem in the wet. See the section on tires for more detailed information.
If you have time, run a medium stiffness axle.
Short rear hubs.
Aluminum wheels if possible (magnesium will corrode).
Remove torsion bars.
Move the rear of the seat up around 1” to 1-1/4” above normal settings. If time will not
allow such a change, place a thick folded towel in the seat to raise the driver.
Rear ride height should be as high as possible.
Loosen the seat struts.
Shield water from splashing on the brake rotor. Taping up the seat struts or fixing a
number panel in front of the brake caliper should accomplish this.
Tape each side pod closed.
Spray ignition with a water repellent such as WD-40 (water displacement-40).
Drill two holes in the seat bottom for drainage
Cut 1/3 the length from an empty one gallon milk jug and tape the remaining milk jug to
your air box in such a way that if serves to block water from directly entering the air
inlets.
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